POLWARTH
So far as the mere fabric is concerned, there are few churches in Berwickshire more interesting than that of Polwarth. Its position on an elevation, embowered in wood and clothed in a lovely green mantle of ivy, is exceedingly picturesque. It is situated almost in the very heart of Berwickshire, midway between Duns and Greenlaw.
The following inscription appears on a sandstone slab inserted in the wall above the south door:
"Templum • hoc • dei • cultui • in • ecclesia • de • Poluarth •
A • fundi • dominis • ejusdem • prius • designationis •
Dein • cognominis • sedificatum • et • dicatum • ante • annum •
Solutis • 900 • rectoriaque • beneficio • dotatum •
sed • temporis • cursu • labefactum •
A • dno • Johanne • de • sancto • claro • de • Herdmanston •
Genero • dni • patricij • de • Poluarth • de • eodem •
circa • annum • 1378 • reparatum •
Tandem • vero • vetustate • ad • ruinam • vergens •
Sumtibus • utriusque • prosapiae • heredis •
Dni • patricij • Hume • comitis • de • Marchmont • etc •
summi • Scotiae • cancellarii •
Et • dnre • Griselliae • Kar • comitissae • suae • sponsae •
Sepulchri • sacello • arcuate • recens • constructum •
Et • campanarum • obelisco • adauctum • fuit •
Anno • domini • 1703."
Translation:
"This temple, for the worship of God in the church of Polwarth, was built and consecrated by the lords of the soil of the same designation, originally, and later of the same name, before the year of grace 900. It was endowed with the benefice of a rector but, in the course of time, fell into ruin. Lord John Sinclair of Herdmanston, the son-in-law of Lord Patrick Hume, Earl of Marchmont, and High Chancellor of Scotland, and Lady Grissell Kar, his wife and countess, repaired it around the year 1378. It was subsequently rebuilt with a vaulted shrine and augmented by the addition of a bell tower. Anno Domini 1703."
On the 7th of April, 1242, the church was dedicated (or, more accurately, re-dedicated, according to the theory of its antiquity as stated in the inscription) by Bishop David de Bernham. In 1296, Adam Lamb, the "parson of the church of Paulesworth," swore fealty to Edward I. and, as a result, had his forfeited property restored. He remained in office until 1299 when Edward appointed William de Sandyutone, clerk, to the living. By 1378, the church—presumably not a very durable or imposing structure—had fallen into a ruinous state and was then repaired by Lord John Sinclair of Herdmanston.
On the other hand, Miss Warrender (herself a descendant of the Homes of Polwarth, and therefore able to speak with authority), in her admirable and carefully written work, Marchmont and the Homes of Polwarth, expresses no doubts about the antiquity of this church. She writes:
"Ten centuries have passed since the pious zeal of those far distant days dedicated a church here to St. Mungo, the 'Beloved Saint,' whose memory, miracles, and blameless life were still fresh in the land."
POLWARTH CHURCH
Adam Hume, the third son of Sir Patrick, the fourth Baron of Polwarth, was rector of the church during the Reformation.
The armorial bearings of the Hume family adorn the church tower, while the crowned orange (the emblem of Marchmont arms) surmounts the eastern gable.
The Marchmont family were liberal benefactors in the repair and furnishing of the church. For the new tower, erected in 1703, Lady Grizel Kar, Countess of Marchmont, gifted a handsome bell inscribed as follows:
"Given to the Kirk of Polwarth by Lady Grizel Kar, Countess of Marchmont, 1697. R.M. Fecit Edr. 1717."
This benefactress appears to have presented the bell 20 years before it was actually made.
The church has a quaint, old-fashioned appearance, lending a peculiar charm to a site already hallowed by associations that have made Polwarth memorable beyond its ecclesiastical history. Beneath the church lies an old vault where Sir Patrick Hume hid for over a month due to his religious convictions. His wife, Lady Polwarth, and his daughter Grisell, then 18 years old, were the only ones aware of his hiding place. With the help of a trusted house carpenter, they secretly brought a bed and bedclothes into the vault at night. The bed, dated 1860, is still preserved at Marchmont.
Today, as then, the vault is dimly lit by a faint light from a grating high in the eastern end. Through it, one can stoop and peer from the outside. In the dim light, four coffins, once richly gilt and decorated, can be seen with tarnished plates, nails, and mouldering velvet palls.*
The story of Sir Patrick's ordeal is vividly recounted in Marchmont and the Humes of Polwarth. According to the memoirs of Lady Murray (Lady Grisell Baillie's daughter):
"For a month, Sir Patrick lived in this dismal hiding place. The only light reached him through the narrow slit at the end of the vault, as having artificial light inside was too risky. Reading was impossible, so he passed the long hours by reciting Buchanan's version of the Psalms, which he knew by heart and remembered until his dying day.
Each night, his daughter Grisell stealthily brought him food and drink, sharing home news and stories to cheer him. She hurried home at dawn, fearful of encountering soldiers scouring the countryside for her father. Though crossing the churchyard after dark terrified her, Grisell overcame her fears. On her first visit, she was frightened by the barking of the minister's dogs near the church. To ensure Grisell’s safety, her mother convinced the minister to destroy the dogs, citing concerns about a mad dog in the area.
Grisell carried food in a crude three-sided lantern, which still exists, with hinges made of rough cowhide. To avoid arousing the servants' suspicions, she hid portions of her dinner in her lap. On one occasion, her little brother Sandy (later the second Lord Marchmont) complained to their mother, 'Mother, will ye look at Grisell? While we’ve been eating our broth, she’s eaten up the whole sheep’s head!' Sir Patrick, upon hearing this, was greatly amused and insisted Sandy share in the meal next time."
Above the two old doorways on the church's front wall are engraved Bible verses. On the southeast wall is an inscription honoring Adam Hume, the first Protestant minister (1567–1593). Two other memorial stones are built into the outer wall, commemorating former ministers: Alexander Cass, who died in 1651, and George Holiwell, described as "pedagogue" to Patrick, Earl of Marchmont, and whose father was a periwig-maker in Duns, who died in 1704.
In olden days, a bell was carried in funeral processions at Polwarth and rung in front of the coffin to frighten away evil spirits. The bell still exists but is currently in the possession of the family of the late minister. Many years ago, the basin of the old font was discovered hidden behind the church. It is now placed on a graduated circular base on the grass close to the west door. This basin is a rudimentary, circular sandstone structure without carvings or ornaments of any kind, apparently of an early date. Its external diameter is 28 inches, and it stands 20.5 inches tall. The depth of the bowl is 14 inches, with a perforation at the bottom.
The interior of the church, like the exterior, is exceedingly quaint and old-fashioned, bearing clear marks of antiquity on its walls and roof. The old hangings that still adorn the pulpit—though now covered with a more modern and less artistic cloth—were embroidered in an elaborate arabesque pattern by Lady Grisell Baillie. On one of the walls is a marble slab commemorating Hugh, Earl of Marchmont, who raised this monument to the eternal memory of his incomparable and obedient wife. The inscription, in Latin, reads:
"Memorise Annae Western,
Hugo Comes de Marchmont,
Conjugi Incomparabili
Obsequentissimae
Et Optimae de Se Meritis Posuit
Ejusque Corpus in Arca Hic Condidit."
The communion plate consists of two silver cups engraved as follows:
"These cups are given to the kirk of Poluarth by Lady Jean Hume, Lady Poluarth."
The churchyard surrounds the church and contains some very old stones, many of which have weathered inscriptions that are now illegible.
On a large stone, the following lines appear:
"Beneath this stone, the hand of death fast binds
A form once active, learned, generous, and kind,
Whose liberal soul to all men did extend;
A friend to all, all men to him a friend."
On a small stone, these words are inscribed:
"Margret Milton spows to Thomas Stevnson who dyed January the 12, 1696, her age..."
The following lines appear on a very small, curiously shaped stone:
"1699
Remember man, as thou gost by,
As thou art now, so once was I.
As I am now, so must ye be;
Remember, man, that ye must die."
A small stone reads:
"Here leys Margret Wait, daughter to James Wait, who died the 4th of Oct. 1734 and in the 27th year of her age."
Another small stone, with an ornamental margin and bearing a cherub on the top, has these words on one side:
"Here lyes Jean Greig, spouse to Patrick Christie, who died in June 1690."
On the other side:
"PC I G
Memento Mori."
Another very small stone is inscribed:
"Hir lyeth cris Tier Ridpath who died 1710, 29 of September."
List of Ministers of Polwarth Since 1567:
Adam Humo — 1567 to 1593
Alexander Gaittis, M.A. — 1593 to 1603
Alexander Cass or Case, M.A. — 1604 to 1651
David Robertson, M.A. — 1652 to 1663
George Holiwell, M.A. — 1664 to 1704
Archibald Borthuik, M.A. — 1709 to 1727
John Hume — 1727 to 1734
William Home — 1735 to 1758
Alexander Hume — 1758 to 1768
Robert Home — 1768 to 1838
Walter Home (Assistant and Successor) — 1823 to 1881
Charles James Watt, M.A. (Present Incumbent) — 1882
Historical Note:
Cass, a member of the General Assembly in 1638, was known for his humor during deliberations. This earned him the following lampoon:
"From the most stupid, senseless asse,
That ever brayed, my cousin Casse;
He is the Assembly's voice, and so
The Assembly is his echo.
The fool speaks first, and all the rest
To say the same are ready prest."
— Scott's Fasti Ecclesiae Scoticanæ
SOURCE: The Churches And Churchyards Of Berwickshire By James Robson 1893, updated 2025 Nathan Zipfel